Tortel and Villa O’Higgins

We have a slow departure leaving the comforts of our Cochrane Airbnb and back out into the wild. Our next goal is Tortel, a coastal town one day’s ride off the Carretera Austral but definitely a recommended detour for a unique experience. Andrew is on a fixed schedule for some future activities, so he leaves earlier to do a long push and arrive that night. The rest of us opt for two days, which will both be pretty hard.

We start out with a gradual climb to the highest point of the day, offering a pleasant lunch spot with ergonomic concrete back rests. We take note to order one of these off Amazon when we return home…

Checking iOverlander for water possibilities ahead, we discover a private home offering all you can eat biscuits, marmalade, coffee and hot chocolate for $5. Sad that we had already eaten, we nonetheless decide to stop here for dessert. The older couple living here invite us into their living room and keep us plied with bread and hot water. We exchange some simple conversation commenting on a few french postcards on their wall.

A big unknown is the 25km of side road to Tortel. Internet chatter says it is in really bad shape with lots of ripio and loose gravel. Additionally we have a few days of forecast rain which could result in mud (but less dust!). So we push for a campground about 85km away.

After several weeks of encountering many nationalities but little french, we suddenly hit a franco metropole. A young french family carrying their 3 and 5 year old children are staying here and recognize our Ubaye decal on our tandem. They love the Barcelonnette area and have hiked around our town several times. We are amazed at their effort with the road conditions and wind and realize our complaining is laughable in comparison. The steel frame of their rented child trailer has broken 3-4 times and they have found welders along the route to piece it back together.

Soon after, another french couple arrives at the campground coming north from Ushuaia (our ultimate goal) and Anne plies them for intel and places to stay.

We are happy to get a little sunshine in the morning in order to dry our tents for packing and head to our Tortel detour. The road is mostly in good shape compared to other stretches we have encountered and the surroundings are quite nice along the water.

Tortel is at the dead-end of a 25km road with basically nothing in between from the Carretera. All the buildings and houses are connected by 8km of wood boardwalks, no streets are present so cars must be parked at the edge of town. A ferry stops at the pier once per week for a 41 hour trip to Puerto Natales.

We rented a cabana not realizing the stairs and boardwalk situation and quickly decide to leave our bikes at the town entrance. It is still a long 20 minute walk to carry our bags over, but worth the location at the end.

We wake to heavy rain and get a little break on the way out of town, still wet but bearable. It is a tough decision to wear a coat to keep rain out, but get even wetter with all the sweat. With a big 600m climb in the mud ahead, Kip ditches the coat to hopefully keep it a little dry for an upcoming ferry ride.

We catch the 14:00h ferry for a nice warm 45 min ride to eat our lunch.

Another 15km and we make it to Camping Maria, where we score room in a metal shelter for our tents, a hot shower, wifi when the generator runs between 7-9pm and a hot wood stove to huddle around for warmth. As a bonus, Maria sells warm homemade biscuits and calafate jam along with eggs, Cokes and cookies. We are very happy!

We are anxious the next morning as it is a 90km push to Villa O’Higgins, the official end of the Carretera Austral. The day starts with three major climbs, then “flat” for the second half.

And boom, there we are in Villa O’Higgins. Our biggest climbing day so far with over 1400m. And as an extra bonus, Andrew is waiting for us at the town entrance as his ferry to Argentina was delayed. The family is back together again!

Over 1350km distance and 17,800m climbing, our Carretera has been amazing. The tandem has held up remarkably well despite my tendency to “send it” down the ripio and torn-up jeep roads (much to the demise of Anne’s butt…)

We arrived a day early in O’Higgins to have a full rest day at the Mosco hostel (the main bikepackers haunt) before we start the second part of our trip, trying to reach Ushuaia at the bottom of South America. Which works out well as it rains heavy non-stop on our day off, over 30mm. Even splurge for a 3-hour session in the hostel sauna, alternating between the sweat box and icy-cold showers outside. We have been super lucky to avoid biking in the worst weather over the past month by either taking zero days or being in shelter. Praying our good fortune continues for the next month!

Next up, the infamous Argentina Border Crossing Challenge. Woe is you if the ferry actually departs!