Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore…
After copious amounts of coffee, we mounted the heavy saddle bags and said a little prayer for our rear wheel. She’s going to get a lot of abuse, especially when we hit all the dirt ripio (rippled surface) later on.
But day 1 is all nice paved road. However in an effort to save money when it comes to climbing hills, the Chilean Dept of Transportation figured out the shortest distance between two points is a straight line. Meaning there were some short but thigh-busting climbs.
Our route out of Puerto Montt on Ruta 7 takes us to our first ferry in La Arena, where we pay a $3 toll for a 45 minute ride.
We pop another 10km to the small village of Contao where we score a room and settle in before the rain starts. We meet Angus, a nice young Australian who is riding the Carretera to finish up a year sabbatical traveling the world with the last several months in South America.
For Day 2 we decide to go off-course and ride the coastal route to Hornopiren, where we will catch a 5 hour ferry the next morning. There is only one ferry per day and it is backed up 8 days for vehicle reservations. When we get to the town, there are literally 100+ vehicles lined up in a waiting que and spending the night - or several nights - hoping for no-shows).
It rains most of the day and we get our first taste of ripio in the gravel sections of the route. Pretty much like holding a jack hammer for a few hours and I’m sure this section was mild.
Interesting was seeing hand-built wooden boats along the road and the small churches with unique cemeteries. I had first thought that these small houses in people’s yards were a homage to a lost pet but later realized these are the local form of grave markers.
Upon reaching Hornopiren, we use iOverlander to find a room in a ladies house while our new friend Angus sets up his tent outside. Everything is still wet, so we’ll glamp another night as we will have plenty of nights ahead to enjoy our tent - plus we want to support the local economy!
Boat ride tomorrow, followed by some hikes!